Looking for something off the beaten track in the City of Lights? Read on.

The sparkles of the Tour Eiffel and romantic strolls along the Seine; famous artworks in the Louvre and Notre Dame’s stunning architecture…OK so we all know the most celebrated landmarks in one of the most famous capital cities in the world.

But if like me, you like to explore and experience those moments that make you feel like you’ve just discovered the biggest secret hidden right under everyone’s noses, something special and unusual and so random that it stays with you, then come with me as I take you on an adventure to these very things! This isn’t about escaping the ‘tourist traps’ or finding places ‘where the locals all go’ just because: it’s all about the energy, the curiosity, the lingering traces of times past. Those places where you get a real feel for the true nature of the city. Plus…they’re all free to enter and I just know you love a bargain. Let’s go!

Arènes de Lutèce (Rue de Navarre, 5eme – metro ‘Jussieu’, lines 7 and 10)

Instead, walk in through the park gates on Rue de Navarre, right into the ring and to a moment frozen in time yet bearing all the marks of the years that followed: You can almost hear the lingering echoes of trumpets and a roaring crowd! Built by the Romans circa the 1st century AD, the amphitheatre would have been stunning in it’s day, able to hold 18,000 people for gladiator combat, aquatic sports and animal fights, the cages for which can still be seen in the arena. It’s true magnificence will never fully be known, however; Barbarian raids in the 3rd and 4th century meant the arena was partially destroyed, and later, its bricks used to build other structures in Paris. Other shades of the city’s history also exist here – the apartment buildings that back onto the arena were actually built against the city wall built by Phillippe Auguste in the 12th century, where the site was used to burn infidels and Christians and became a necropolis. Lost under rubble, vineyards and time, it was eventually rediscovered in the 19th century during the Haussmann-era building works, and was saved in a very public campaign led by none other than Victor Hugo, who also led the public campaign to save and restore Notre Dame! A real city hero. Today, this quiet spot is used by school children and elderly gentlemen playing boules, and is best enjoyed with a morning coffee, a croissant and a good book.

Deyrolle (46 Rue du Bac, 7eme – metro ‘Rue du Bac’, line 12)

OK so this is quite possibly one of the most weird, wonderful and most definitely macabre places in the whole of the city and yes that incudes the Catacombs! Deyrolle is a sort of gardening and fashion shop founded in 1831 which has a taxidermy museum upstairs and received some popular attention following it’s inclusion in Woody Allen’s movie Midnight in Paris (2011). Pictures inside the museum are forbidden and it has to be seen to be believed, but here is a run-though of what you can expect: lions and tigers and bears, oh my! There’s art, insects, eggs. And some incredibly uncanny animal ‘fusions’, shall we say and let’s leave the spoilers there. You’re likely thinking, what the Hell! I know. Think of it like this: natural science and ecology meets art, showcasing the beauty of nature. To see and understand leads to preservation and protection – when the building and its contents were almost destroyed in a fire in 2008, local and famous artists gathered to help preserve the site, renowned for its educational endeavours and historical significance. Plus it keeps on beat with current awareness and concerns. You have to see it to believe it!

Les Passages Couverts (mostly in the 2eme – metro ‘Grands Boulevards’, lines 8 and 9)

From Passage Verdeau (entrance: Rue du Faubourg Montmartre) right through Passage Jouffroy, Passage des Panoramas, and almost continuing in a straight line-ish to Galerie Vivienne (exit: Rue des Petits-Champs), these covered passages are incredible to walk through and explore.

Some of the best ones, noted above, showcase an excellent blend of bookstores, toyshops, fashion, cafes and museums. Some have traditional bistros and cafes amongst the shops whilst others are very bobo, offering kitsch and trendy cuisine options. A few are high-end, particularly the stunning Vivienne (pictured), which shelters designer boutiques, art galleries and fashionable eateries. A highlight for me in here is the incredibly well-maintained interior with mosaic flooring, and the bookshop, which has a fantastic selection of books at very good prices. If you only have time to visit one, go to Vivienne…though I can’t guarantee that you won’t end up suddenly finding yourself having been swept through them all!

Jardin des Serres d’Auteuil et La Petite Ceinture du 16eme (3 Avenue de la Porte d’Auteuil, 16eme – metro ‘Porte d’Auteuil’, line 10)

Tucked away in a beautiful public park – which is worth a visit in it’s own right – are a collection of incredible greenhouses, perfect for a rainy day, or to escape the city crowds. These gardens and greenhouses are elegant and striking, with tall, glass and iron structures typical of the 1890s era that house tropical plants and trees from around the world (the gardens themselves date back to Louis XVs reign, around 1760). There are fountains and art works on display, little ponds of fish, stunning foliage and even an aviary. Meander through the winding paths to take in the beauty of the plants and creatures; the cacti and orchid sections are outstanding. From here, head across the roads towards the large square of brasseries, restaurants and cafes, and cut down the left hand side of ‘Auteuil Brasserie’, through the little gate into La Petite Ceinture. This little gate will take you into a section of the abandoned railway line that used to encircle the city and is now a nature trail. This part dates back to 1851 but, having been closed to public passengers in the 1930s, almost all of its old features are gone or lost to the plants and trees. On a hot day this belt of greenery is a god-send, providing cool shade and a calm space for amblers and dog walkers so it is very safe and well maintained with clear access points along the route. The trail comes out into the Jardin du Ranelagh where at it’s tip, the old railway stationhouse has been converted into a Latin-American restaurant that makes full use of the space with excellent ambience and cuisine.

Butte-aux-Cailles (13eme – metro ‘Corvisart’, line 6)

This brings me perfectly to our final unusual and often overlooked place! The charming little village on the hill, that has oddly retained it’s village feel despite being a stone’s throw away from one of the busiest parts of the city. Best visited during the day for a good look at the street art, but stay for dinner to experience the incredible night vibe and some of the best hidden gem restaurants in the city. Let me tell you a little bit about the place: in the 1500s it was a vineyard, and a river ran down the hill towards the Latin Quarter, which was heavily used and polluted by the tannery industry that sprung up along its banks. The river was covered over in the 19th century, but still flows below ground; be sure to check out the art nouveau swimming pool on Place Paul Verlaine, which uses naturally warm spring water that comes up through the ground! The hill was, like that over at Montmartre, heavily mined over the centuries and does not have a strong enough foundation for tower blocks and large buildings, which has helped to preserve the quaint village feel of the Butte. To really capture this feel, make sure to check out Rue Daviel, where you will see a beautiful, colourful workers village, and directly opposite that, Villa Daviel, both of which date back to 1912 and will give you the quaint Paris most tourists simply dream of. So, a little bit about the street art and restaurants.

I hope you have enjoyed this little flaneur into some of Paris’s most unusual places! I’d love to hear about your own finds, so please share them with me. Bonne exploration a toutes et a tous!

© Dr Madeleine Smith (2024)